A year ago when planning my trip I knew Positano, on the Amalfi Coast, would be special – but there is no telling what Positano is like – it can only be “experienced”. I will try to share some of the magic here.
After researching extensively I decided to take the four hour train from Florence to Salerno and then the Travelmar Ferry from Salerno into Positano. The train ride is nothing special but the hour and a half ferry ride up the coast to Positano is positively stunning with breath-taking vistas round every bend. And after listening to a dinner guest retell the agony of driving down the Amalfi coast with its appalling traffic I knew I had made the right choice.
As my daughter Laurel said, it felt like we were in a movie set! The distinct advantage of being on the water hugging the coast the whole way is that the perspective is perfect. The mountains soar straight up from the azure blue Mediterranean speckled with old fortresses, caves, deep crevasses and occasionally a beautiful melon coloured village with its cupola signalling the centre would pop up nestled at the base. Positano was one such village.
Hotel Palazzo Murat was a short walk up a few steep steps from the Positano harbour and our two day stay was absolutely pure bliss! Everything about this old hotel exudes classical perfection. A place you never want to leave.
At check in you are greeted with fresh squeezed ice cold lemonade made from property plucked lemons. This greeting sets the tone for the whole hotel. Gracious and welcoming!
An aperitif in the lounge surrounded by Bougainville vines, soft white patio umbrellas, lush vegetation and the village of Positano smack in front of you reaching skyward with buildings perched at impossible angles makes it one of those settings that will remain permanently stamped in your brain.
The room was as lovely as I could have wished for. This is not a modern hotel with all the bells and whistles but rather a classic Italian gem with crisp white walls, beautiful tiles, luxurious linens and a bed that makes it difficult to get up for breakfast.
And then there is the balcony with a view to die for regardless of the direction you choose to look.
Breakfast in the morning under the lemon trees with the scent of jasmine lingering in the air makes it feel decadent. The included breakfast was very good – not excellent – but the ambiance made up for any deficits! Such a civilized way to start the day.
You also just want to stay and languish by the pool with its stellar view of the cupola and ocean. Book in hand you can wile away the hours on one of the loungers listening to the songbirds serenading you from the lush green landscape.
For dinner the hotel boasts a Michelin star restaurant with soft lighting, expansive white umbrellas, linen tablecloths, sterling silverware and excellent service. We chose the five course tasting menu but found the portions very large which slightly detracted from the experience.
I feel very grateful to have been able to experience Positano with my daughter. Shared memories are the best kind!
If ever you are presented with the opportunity to visit Positano jump at the chance – only then will you truly understand what I am trying to share here.
Every block surrounding the Duomo, not a word of a lie, has at least two different bars/coffee/pastry shops, a gelato stop, several trattorias or bistros, and a restaurant or two. Just deciding where to eat, never mind what to eat, becomes an almost unsurmountable challenge.
I love that bars here are coffee stops during the morning and switch to serving liquor at night – makes perfect sense to me! And I say coffee stops rather than shops because coffee here is usually consumed standing at the bar – where you pay less money, down your shot of espresso and continue on your way in a matter of minutes. If you choose to sit and sip you often pay more for the luxury of a seat.
I’ve also learned that you order your coffee at the till, move down the bar to wait for it, then drink it before returning to the till to pay for it. I looked very much the foreigner the first time let me tell ya – ah, the nuances of protocol in a new country!
Food everywhere in Florence is so exceptionally delicious it’s dangerous to leave the apartment. My daily gelato is to die for, the Cafe Americano knocks my socks off, the pastry makes me want to weep and this all before noon – Mamma Mia!
Pizza here is an explosion of flavours! The ingredients are so fresh and the crust fat-edged to hold everything in yet thin in the centre. When drizzled with olive oil infused with herbs it reaches the ultimate in perfection – an experience not to be missed. What’s the bet this guy eats the whole thing?!
Paninis and baquette sandwiches are made with mouth-watering cheeses (often bufala which is my favourite), salami, sun ripened tomatoes, a bit of lettuce if you’re lucky and not a lot of sauces or mayonnaise because they aren’t needed. Artichokes and roasted eggplant are common ingredients as well. These open-faced options below are frequently my dinner.
A fabulous sandwich at my favourite stop, Accademia Cafe, is 4 euros while coffee and a scrumptious pastry is 2.50 euros. Can’t beat that! Needless to say they know my name now. Aldo, the owner, and I cobble together conversations in “Englitaliano” which is great fun and although I tell him I’m Canadian he still thinks I’m Swedish.
But better than street food is visiting the local markets to stock up on items to cook at home. Two favourites here are the Sant Ambrogio Market, predominantly visited by locals, and the more up-scale tourist market of San Lorenzo. Very different but each has its own delights.
Sant Ambrogio Market, a few blocks from the apartment I’m renting is one of the main reasons I choose this location. Wishing to live like a local and experience the local colour was a major criteria for my stay in Florence and this market doesn’t disappoint!
The market vendors are a friendly bunch who love their jobs and it shows. They chat away, joke with the locals, smile warmly and try to speak English or some other language with those who aren’t Italian. Their laughter pierces the din like a xylophone riff – it’s so infectious. They take time to make recommendations and ask questions. Buying a roast beef was a bit difficult since I non parlo Italiano and the butcher thought I wanted steak. So even with hand gestures and much pointing I still headed home with the fattest steak ever tucked under my arm. Ha – such fun!
The selection of cheeses, breads, salamis, pastries, and fresh pastas is almost overwhelming and choosing one over the other presents a major challenge and is the reason I always head home laden with more than I need. Everything is just too damn tempting and so ridiculously delicious it’s insane!
By contrast the scene at the San Lorenzo market is more up-scale and geared toward tourists – it has many delectable delights.
Huge truffles worth 300,000 euros come to mind and no, I did not misplace a zero.
The second floor of the San Lorenzo is strictly a fresh fast-food market with many quality choices and the opportunity to sit and sip a prosecco or glass of wine while watching the crazy throngs of tourists – entertainment in itself. 
My afternoon delight – one of many – love the place!
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